When Captain John Smith proclaimed this in 1608 surely
he was reaffirming a sentiment many before and after him have felt
about these fair shores. This strip of land on the Delmarva Peninsula,
fortuitously situated between the Atlantic Ocean on the east and
the Chesapeake Bay on the west, is 22 miles at its widest point.
It unfolds 70 miles southward from the Maryland line to its southernmost
tip. Surrounded by pristine beach,
marsh and laced with waterways,
it affords a beautiful vista of pine and hardwood forests among verdant
farm fields, hamlets and towns. Graced with a unique beauty the Eastern
Shore’s history is equally compelling.
Asians were the first settlers who crossed the frozen northern landmass
to North American 25 to 50 thousand years ago and continued southward
to populate the Americas and the Eastern Shore. Here, their descendants
and successors, the Occahancock and Accomack Algonquins, became stewards
of a virtual Eden and struck a delicate balance with
its
fertile soil, clear streams, creeks and bays and abundant wildlife.
Area tribes eventually succumbed to diseases introduced by Europeans
or were dispersed by aggressive colonial settlement. The Gingaskin
clan of the Accomacks comprised the vast majority of the survivors.
Today evidence of their fondness for seafood can still be found in
ancient shell middens (refuse) buried along creek beds, reminders
of centuries of shellfish harvesting. Their arrowheads and tools
are also known to wash up with the tides. Native American influence
carried over to the names of Eastern Shore towns and villages such
as Chincoteague, Assateague, Pungoteague, Assawoman, Onancock, and
Chesapeake, which means “great shellfish bay”.
Approximately 500 years ago in 1524, the next wave of settlers was
preceded by the Italian Giovanni Da Verranzo in the employ of the
French, and the Spaniard Lucus Vasquez d'Ayllca in the employ of
the Spanish Crown. Verranzo landed on Assateague Island and traversed
the peninsula to its eastern waters, naming what we now know as the
Chesapeake Bay the "Western Sea". D'Ayllca sailed
into and mapped the numerous eastern bays and creeks on the Chesapeake
Bay side of the Eastern Shore.
Captain John Smith guided the struggling English colony of Jamestown
and in 1608 led an exploring party and mapped the Chesapeake Bay
region with amazing accuracy, including the Eastern Shore where he “modestly” named
one of the southern most islands, Smith Island. It is the same isle
where infamous pirate captain, Edward Teach –Blackbeard cleaned
the hull of his ship in 1717, a spot still known as Blackbeard’s
Cove.
The Jamestown government obtained land on the Eastern Shore from
the Indians in 1614 but came to stay in 1620. With them came the
first Africans transported here to serve as slave laborers forced
to work on the growing number of plantations. During the colonial
era slaves proved skilled in crafts and building structures and many
of the region’s impressive historic homes can be linked to
early slave craftsmanship. Located on Pungoteague Creek the Eastern
Shore also has the distinction of having the first African community
in the English Colonies.
In 1663 the peninsula was divided into two counties, Accomack to
the north and Northampton in the south. In these two counties are
found the earliest continuous court records in America dating from
1632. The town of Eastville possess the oldest followed by the town
of Accomac.
From
Colonial times to the present, agriculture has been the mainstay
of the Eastern Shore economy. Early farmers grew tobacco and later
turned to livestock, some of which freely grazed on the seaside barrier
islands. Evidently farms raised grain crops and produce. Area creeks
served as the highways for farm products that were then shipped to
destination via the Chesapeake Bay and Atlantic. That is until the1880s
when the advent of the railroad
literally changed the face of the
Eastern Shore. Built down the spine of the peninsula, towns and villages
sprung up along the line.
Watermen, the local vernacular for fishermen, have been tilling the
tides for generations.
Once abundant, oysters were the pearls of
the seafood industry along with the famed blue crab, clams and scallops.
The docks in waterfront villages and towns bustled with activity
as watermen brought in their catch and seafood packing, oyster shucking
and crab picking houses stayed busy. Though oysters struggle to come
back from over-harvesting and disease, blue crabs from the Eastern
Shore are still a sought after commodity with soft shell crabs being
Tangier Island’s claim to shellfish fame. Clam aquaculture
or water farming is a multi-million dollar industry with operations
in Willis Wharf, Chincoteague and Cherrystone Creek.
One of the Eastern Shore’s enduring charms is its historic
architecture. From country homes to colonial ports, village churches
to railroad towns, it’s nearly impossible to travel anywhere
without seeing these treasures from the past. The county seats of
Eastville and Accomac have court house commons and tiny colonial-era
prisons along with a stellar housing stock spanning three centuries. The
glory years of the railroad are reflected in the abundant examples
of Victorian architecture with towns such as Cape Charles and Parksley
filled with these porch and gingerbread-adorned beauties. Garden
Week in April provides an opportunity to tour several distinct Eastern
Shore homes.
Historic Hot Spots
Cape Charles Museum and Welcome Center: “Hear” the
locomotive whistle of the
founding railroad and “smell” the
salt air on elegant steamers like the Elisha Lee, thanks to a rich
archival photo collection that brings this 1886 bayside railroad
town’s past to life. Models of sailing vessels, barges and
ferries, mix with many vintage vestiges of daily life - a 1940s telephone
switchboard, a local blacksmith’s handcart circa 1920. Outside
an original Shore
railroad passenger station stands sentinel with
classic caboose and baggage car. Walk back in time then walk out
the door and down the same streets over a century later. 814 Randolph Avenue (757) 331-1008 or
www.smallmuseum.org/capechas.htm
Custis Tomb: Explore the scenic spot on the banks
of Arlington Creek the historic site of Arlington Plantation. The
grand manor house built in the 1670s by tobacco farmer John Custis
II is no more, but its distinguished lineage lives on in the Arlington
National Cemetery and the Custis-Lee home located there -- both named
after this Eastern Shore home. Once the temporary capital of the
Virginia Colony during Bacon’s Rebellion, the foundation found
during architectural digs, a grave site and small exhibit tells its
storied past with new interpretive signs. Southwest of Cape Charles,
Arlington Rd. just off Rt. 13.
Eyre Hall Gardens: Eyre Hall is one of Virginia’s
finest and best-preserved colonial homes. Approached by a long, old-fashioned
cedar-lined lane, the house overlooks Cherrystone Creek. Thomas
Eyre landed at Jamestown in 1622 to take up patented land on the
Eastern Shore in 1623. Since then, Eyre descendents have owned land
in the lower portion of Northampton County continuously for 12 generations.
Littleton Eyre (great-grandson of Thomas) purchased the present site
of Eyre Hall and in 1760 built the original gambrel-roofed portion.
The gardens are among the oldest in the country, circa 1800. Ancient boxwood
and gnarled crape myrtles tower over the traditional swept paths,
all enclosed by a wall of brick brought as ballast from
England. On the sunny side, English-style mixed borders add color,
and opposite is the family graveyard and romantic orangery ruin from
1819. The gardens are open to the public year-round, free of charge. Located
on west side of Rt. 13 between Cheriton and Eastville.
Barrier Islands Center: The
large Cobb’s Hotel ledger lies open to the page where 109 years
ago a fountain pen swept across leaving swirls of fanciful script.
For half a century the Cobb family drew the wealthy in droves to
the shores of their namesake island. Today the
prestigious
Victorian hotel is gone - vanished like nearly all traces of man
from most of Virginia’s barrier islands. Relics and the remembrances
of the people who once called these islands home could have been
erased by the tides of time but luckily this captivating history
is preserved and artfully displayed at the historic former “poorhouse
farm”, along Rt. 13. Check out the Breeches Buoy Rig, what
looks to be a humorous pair of old fashion drawers attached to a
life preserving ring, actually a lifesaving tool used by the stalwart
crews who manned the Life Saving Stations- the predecessor of the
Coast Guard- on several barrier islands. Two floors are overflowing
with fascinating artifacts of island life including watermen’s
netting needles and a guitar played at the Red Onion- Hog Island’s
dance hall. Northwest of Eastville, along Rt.
13 (757) 678-5550 www.barrierislandscenter.com
Ker Place: This stately historic
Federal-style home turned museum has been authentically restored
to its1799 roots welcoming visitors back to the world of
John Shepherd Ker in the thriving port of Onancock. Tours
are available of the periodically furnished house also home to the
Eastern Shore Historical Society. Exhibits expand to the newly
opened cellar and on the attractive grounds. 9
Market St, Onancock (757)787-8012 www.kerplace.org
Eastern Shore Railroad Museum: Train tracks lead
into Parksley’s quaint town square
where tiny shops and picture-perfect
Victorian homes give the town the look of a model train village come
to life. Step into the restored train station and step back in time
when passengers purchased tickets or warmed themselves in front of
the coal stoves. In the glory days of the iron horse 14 passenger
trains a day stopped here. Today the train whistle can still be heard
when the Eastern Shore Railroad passes through with freight cars.
The main museum building is chock-full of railroad memorabilia from
the many that operated on this peninsula since the mid-1800s. The
1927 Diplomat, an elegant parlor/lounge car, a jaunty 1949 caboose
and a 1950 sleeper car are available for guided tours. (757) 665-RAIL.
NASA/Wallops Visitor Center: On the road to Chincoteague Island
view the recently
revamped museum with noteworthy exhibits ranging from a moon
rock brought back from Apollo 17 astronauts to interactive computer displays
including, “Fly Your Own Sounding Rocket” and ”Apollo Missions
to the Moon”. The Observation Deck offers great views of the Wallops
Main Base and runways along with Chincoteague and Wallops Island. Wallops Island
launch site tours by advanced reservation. Located near
Chincoteague Island. (757)824-1344
The Oyster and Maritime Museum: Guiding sailors
for nearly a century the original
Assateague
Lighthouse Lens –one
of the largest in the country –is reason enough to walk through
the door, learning about life on and around the island is reason
to stay a while. A group of island women founded the museum in 1965
and it was expanded in 1996. Fascinating exhibits focus on the Chincoteague
Oyster so renowned in Civil War times that the island didn’t
secede from the Union in part to avoid a blockade of its shellfish
to Yankee ports. Along with traditional tools used in the oyster
industry there’s a wealth of information on the gathering and
processing of the bivalves, once a major part of the island’s
economy. Located just before the entrance to the Chincoteague National
Wildlife Refuge. (757)336-5800 www.chincoteaguechamber.com/oyster/omm.html
Refuge
Waterfowl Museum: Over 8000 square feet
of beautifully displayed waterfowl history. Treasures include antique
boats, guns, traps, art and decoys by various craftsmen distinguished
in their fields, includes an extensive collection by island legends.
7059 Maddox Blvd, Chincoteague
(757)336-5800 chincoteaguechamber.com/i-refuge-waterfowl-museum.html